Rectangular Diamond Trellis Basket
I know one of the reasons my customisable rope basket has been popular is because of it’s rectangular shape. So I thought I’d expand on my patterns using the diamond trellis basket stitch and make a rectangular version of this round one!
This rectangular version is also customisable – just do an even number of rounds for the base and then move on to the sides. So you can make whatever size you like!
Mine is 34cm by 24cm by 18cm high.
Scroll down for pdf patterns! (US and UK notation)
I used 264g (450m) aran weight yarn and 158g (490m) dk yarn held together, with a size 5mm hook.
You can use any combination of stash yarns held together to make a super chunky weight equivalent yarn. Choose a hook size as small as you can still crochet with smoothly so that the resulting fabric is stiff.
Cut two 40cm lengths of all the yarns you are holding together before your begin– this will be used to crochet the edging sl-st onto the handle area.
You will find 4 stitch markers placed at the corners useful for this project.
The basket is crocheted in the round from the centre out and then up to make the sides. I turn the work at the end of every round.
If you prefer you can crochet a rectangular base in your preferred method and then crochet evenly around it before starting the sides. You will need to end up with a multiple of 4 plus one corner stitch on each side for the pattern to work. Join the yarn to a corner stitch to start the sides.
To adjust the pattern to your preferred dimensions, begin with a chain which is a multiple of 4 and is the length of the difference in side length – for example to make a 10cm by 15cm basket, make a chain which is 5cm long. Then add or subtract a few chains to make it a multiple of 4 chains. My basket started with a chain which was 20 chains (10cm long).
When you are working the diamond trellis stitch for the sides you may find this tutorial video useful.
Please try making this quick swatch before you make the sides of the basket if you are unfamiliar with this stitch!
Special stitch: Front post treble crochet two together: Fptrc2tog:
This makes a V-shaped stitch in front of the work with the two arms of the V being worked around the posts of the stitches 2 rows below. All the V’s worked side by side make one half of the diamond pattern. Work the first row of fptrc2tog as follows:
- Yarn over hook twice, insert hook horizontally (from front to back to front again) behind the “post” of the sc st indicated (in this case it will be the post just worked by the previous post st)
- Yarn over hook and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). *Yarn over hook, draw through 2 loops, repeat from *, 2 loops left on hook (one arm of the V made).
- Yarn over hook twice, skip 3 sc posts, insert hook horizontally behind the next post. Yarn over hook and draw up a loop (5 loops on hook). *Yarn over hook, draw through 2 loops, repeat from *, 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over hook, draw through all three loops.
- There will be an “unworked” stitch left in the row below (behind the newly made fptrc2tog stitch).
The remaining fptrc2tog stitches of the first row using the stitch are worked the same way – with the first arm of the V worked around the same post as the last arm of the previous stitch. After the first row using this stitch the fptrc2tog stitch is worked around the top of the previous fptr2tog stitches rather than the sc posts.
Ch1 at the start of a round does not count as a st. Ch2 at the start of a round counts as an hdc or dc stitch.
Ch 20 (or any multiple of 4 chs– see above)
R1: ch2, (hdc) in the 2nd ch from hook. (You may wish to mark the first hdc with a st marker) hdc in each ch until 1 ch remains. Work (6hdc) into the final chain – the 2nd and 5th hdc of this group are corner sts – you may wish to add a st marker. Hdc back along the other side of the ch working one stitch into each chain unti the final ch (this already has 2hdc worked into it from the start of the round). Work (4hdc) into the final ch. The second hdc worked of these four is the final corner stitch – you may want to add a marker. Sl-st to join.
Remaining rounds work one hdc into each st and 3 hdc into each corner st, turning each round.
R2: ch2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc, hdc, (3hdc) into corner st, hdc in each st until next corner st, (3hdc), hdc, hdc, (3hdc) into corner st, hdc in each st until final corner st,hdc and join with a sl-st into starting chain.
For the remaining rounds work one hdc into each st and 3 hdc into each corner st, turning each round. Work an even multiple of rounds until the base is your desired dimension. This will give you a multiple of 4 stitches on all sides, plus the corner stitches.
Example shown used 12 rounds for a 34cm by 24cm base size.
Work R1 in the back loop only to make a ridge around the corner of the base. Work R1 in the clockwise direction and the base is placed with its base downwards.
R1: ch1, sc into each stitch around, join with a sl-st.
R2: ch2 (or 3 if you prefer), turn, dc into each st around, join with a sl-st.
R3: ch1, [work a fptrc about the post of the corner st directly below (to make a vertical stitch). Sc in next st, frptrc2tog (work the first arm about the post of the sc just used for the corner fp stitch, and the second arm about the sc post 4 places along from this – so that there is a space of 3 sc unused). *Sc in each of the next 3 sts, fptrc2tog, repeat from * until only 2 sts remain before the corner stitch, sc in each of the final 2 sts.] Repeat everything between  for the final 3 sides, join with a sl-st.
R4: repeat round 2
R5: ch1, [work a fptrc2tog, but about the post of the vertical fptrc st directly below (to make a vertical stitch) and then with the second arm about the top of the next fptrc2tog st (to make a forward sloping arm). Sc in next st 3 sts, frptrc2tog (with the first arm about the top of the fptrc2tog just worked about, and the the second arm about the next fptrc2tog st). *Sc in each of the next 3 sts, fptrc2tog, repeat from * until only 4 sts remain before the corner stitch, sc in each of the next 3 sts, fptrc (a backwards sloping stitch about the last frptrc2tog st just worked about).] Repeat everything between  for the final 3 sides, join with a sl-st.
R6: repeat round 2
R7: Work as for round 3, but work the post stitches about the existing fptrc2tog sts rather than any sc posts.
Repeat rounds 4-7 until the basket is a round less than your desired height, ending on an odd round. Example shown uses 17 rounds. Do not fasten off, but find the lengths of yarn cut before you started as we will now join these to make the edge for the handle.
Join the yarn on the side where you wish to place the handle. I used 5 pattern repeats centred on the long sides – if you have worked two rows more or less than the example you may find 4 pattern repeats is centred correctly instead. Join the yarn one stitch further on from a fptrc2tog st into the back loop only and to work counter clockwise. Sl-st into the back loop only for 19 sts (or 15 sts if you are working the handle over 4 pattern repeats). You should finish one st before a fptrc2tog st.
Repeat for the second handle using the second lengths of yarn.
Handles and side completion:
Now pick up the main yarn and continue working in pattern until the handle area.
R8: ch2, turn, *dc in each st until you reach a place where you have edged the handle hole. You should have just worked a dc into a fptrc2st. Ch 19 (or 15 for a 4-pattern repeat handle whole), dc in next unworked st (this will be another fptrc2tog stitch). Repeat from *, dc into all the remaining sts and join with a sl-st.
R9: Work in pattern (i.e. either a round 5 or 7 depending on which is next) until you reach 1 st before a handle chain. *Hdc2tog (last st on side of basket and into the 1st chain for the handle), hdc2tog (over next 2 chains), (2hdc) into next chain, (2hdc) into next ch, hdc in each chain until only 5 chains remain, (2hdc) into next chain, (2hdc) into next ch, hdc2tog (over next 2 chains), hdc2tog (last ch and 1st st on main body of basket)*, continue to work the main basket pattern until you reach one st before the next handle chain. Repeat from * to *, continue in main pattern to the end of the round and join with a sl-st.
R10: ch1, turn, *sl-st in the back loop of each st around until you reach an hdc st from the round below. Hdc in every hdc st, repeat from *, sl-st in back loop of every remaining st, join with a sl-st.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Do not block!
So, what will you be storing in yours?